Mikri Vigla, the name sounds Indian not Greek! It’s a village on the West coast of Naxos. An accident of map reading meant we thought it was about 2 kilometres outside the capital, Naxos town. So we were startled when the taxi driver suggested a 30 Euro fare until we realised it’s more like 18 kilometres!
We arrived in a remote spot, originally an agricultural community now gone over to tourism but with many of the businesses closed since late September when the last summer visitors went home. Ydreos Studios where we stayed is unusual as the owners are resident having been here for 4 generations and so they can accept bookings at any time. About fourteen apartments and studios occupy 5 buildings scattered over a breezy promontory with sea views in three directions. The view through the windows from our room was like a Matisse but you have to be Matisse to capture it, impossible to photograph!
A bakery (serving excellent coffee) and 2 grocery shops were open plus a kite-surfing centre. There’s also a taverna serving about 3 dishes, we ate there in solitude so it may be closed by now!
Enjoying our coffee one morning we saw a JCB apparently digging trenches at random up a bare hillside. We learned that before any building project can start archaeological investigations must be completed. Admirable to find this happening despite all of Greece’s problems.
Yannis, our host, a gruff character initially, turned out to be wonderfully helpful. He organised bikes, twice gave us a lift for dinner at a great taverna in a nearby village, arranged our next hotel and took us there without charging for the ride! His mother, Maria, was in charge of administration, but found time to bake pies and puddings delivered to our door at unexpected times.
We cycled to two idyllic beaches of endless sand. It’s still warm enough for swimming and the water is safe. The first time we went out on bikes Alan got three punctures from dried thorns off the bushes. After that we knew to keep well away from any vegetation.